Installing an AFCO Aluminum Racing Radiator in a 65 Without Cutting the Core Support

While prepping for the engine reinstall, I decided to replace the current 3 row radiator.  I'd never been happy with the cooling (who of us is, right?)...and while I was at it.......

Here is the AFCO Racing Radiator side by side with the standard unit.  The AFCO unit is a side flow, completely welded, generic racing radiator sold primarily for track cars.  This unit's dimensions are 19" high by 22" wide, making it ideal as a replacement for the aging copper unit.  It was also only $179.  Supposedly it's equal to the cooling of a 5 row brass unit.  We'll see.
Source Information:
Source: Marvin Fillip Racing Supply       San Angelo, Texas                     (915) 949-1111 Part No: AFCO 80100FN

These radiators come in a standard 19" height, but in several different widths and different outlet locations.  Since I'm running a '69 engine (with a '70 water pump as Mustang Steve pointed out), the water pump inlet is on the driver's side.  So, I ordered the unit setup for driver's side outlet.

Notice the alignment to the core support.  There was no cutting of any kind to install the radiator, just the fabrication of some attachments that bolted to the core support frame, and to the existing radiator holes..
The existing width of the core support opening is within 1/8" of the width of the finned area of the 22" tank. Approximately 1" upper and lower fins are blocked by the core support.  To me this amount was not worth cutting the core support.  

I removed the voltage regulator and installed a solid state one on the alternator.  The overflow tank fits nicely in it's spot.

Mounting:

The lower mounts were made from 1/8" steel, folded to form a left and right cradle.  The driver's side is shown here, along with how I drilled two holes and used clipnuts to attach the bracket to the core support. I experimented with various foam rubber and rubber inserts to properly space and cushion the side tanks.  

Notice the upper retainer is different in this photo than the one above.  The first one was too large and distracting.  The  bracket shown to the far left wraps around the tank and secures to the existing upper radiator bracket hole.  No drilling is required. 
The upper bracket on the driver's side is not shown in any of these photos, but is not square like the pax side.  That side of the tank is rounded in it's transition to the pressure cap.  The bracket on that side is round, and follows the contour of the tank.  Another option is to use 3" standoffs and run them from the upper flange of the radiator to the core support.  I've seen this installation and it looks very clean.
Wiring & Temperature Sensor:

Wiring is standard setup.... us a relay like those listed on my headlight page.  .    
Run hot signal from a switched battery source.
Main power comes from a battery term of the Solenoid.
Main power out to the fan..  
Ground Lead from Fan to Chassis Ground
Relay Signal ground to the Temp sensor, shown here.  Shown is a Spal brand temp sensor.  It will turn the fan off/on by reaching 185 temperature and grounding the circuit, turning on the fan.  I almost immediately broke this temp sensor, cracking the top stud out of the phenolic housing.  After that, I went down to AutoZone and asked for PN SW649.  It's a factory version of the same item and costs about half as much.  
SPAL Fan Installation:

How's this for clearance.  There's all of maybe 3/8" between the fan and the pulley bolt heads.  But a miss is as good as a mile.  

The fan is a SPAL, 16" puller, rated at 2360 CFM.  I chose it because of it's good reviews, 3.7" depth, and availability on EBAY for 2/3's the price of retail.  

Be prepared tho...this fan has a startup draw of over 25 amps.  You need to have a stout alternator.
Battery Tray Relocation:

Although not necessary to install the new tank, changing over to a 69-70 battery tray provides a lot more room to work.  

To install the tray, the lower leg must be cut and re-bent to allow the tray to sit flush on the apron shelf.  The apron must be 'percussion engineered' as MS puts it, to allow for the tray to fit outboard as far as possible.  I took the middle approach, and beat the apron to the point that I felt it could actually tear, and then cut the corner of the tray to clear the interference. Not the notch in the lower right of the tray in the photo below. 

To reinforce the mounting, I also installed an 6" long angle brace on the underside of the shelf.

Looking straight down on the relocated battery tray. The outboard edge of the tray lines up with the top of the fender apron.  A small pocket still remains (Thinking about making a block off plate out of sheet metal and hiding the starter solenoid there.)

When purchasing the 69-70 tray, you will also need the two tie-down posts and the battery cross brace. 

Questions? Email me.
20 August 2002

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